I’ll admit it. When we secured our entries last year to the Tokyo Marathon, neither of us were particularly excited about visiting Japan beyond checking off another World Marathon Major finish. While others who have been to the country before raved about it, Japan just hasn’t been high on our list of places to go, largely because of our anticipated difficulty dealing with the foreignness of it – getting around, ordering food at restaurants, etc. Like most places though, a little bit of advance research on traveling there goes a long way.
Before you go:
- Register your trip on Visit Japan Web (or fill out paper entry forms upon arrival in the country)
- Review rules on bringing in prescription & OTC medications
- Get a Suica transit card (on iPhone only) and load it with money via Apple Wallet for train and bus fares that can be used throughout the country (you can get a reloadable Welcome Suica physical card at some locations including the airports but it must be reloaded with cash, again only at certain locations)
- Make dining reservations for any must visit places (especially if you have dietary restrictions – in my case, gluten-free)
- Purchase timed admission tickets to any popular attractions or events (research when bookings open because certain things often sell out quickly)
Unlike our other recent international travels, we did not encounter any flight delays this time. We started our journey on Friday aboard the 7:30pm United flight from Austin, TX to San Francisco, CA after enjoying our last visit to the Chase Sapphire Terrace at ABIA before it closes permanently next month. Our connecting flight to Tokyo Haneda airport with ANA departed after midnight, so we lost Saturday to the time change (+15 hours from CST) and in-flight time (10.5 hours).
We arrived at Haneda on Sunday at 4am (an hour early). With free WiFi available in the airport terminal, I was able to easily access our QR code from the Visit Japan Web site to clear immigration and customs. Thankfully, there were not any long lines, so we breezed right through. However, we had to wait until 6:30am to pick up our pocket WiFi rental (through Japan Wireless) for the trip before leaving the airport, so we grabbed a quick bite to eat at Cafe Cardinal on the 4th floor of the International terminal (allergens listed on menu – I was able to eat the chicken curry – GF). Having learned about the popularity of collecting stamps at various transportation and sightseeing spots across the country via the Japan Stamp Rally Community on Facebook, I also had time to track down my first couple of stamps at the airport Information Centers on the second floor (Kurt was not amused by my enthusiasm for this fun trip project).
When the WiFi pickup counter opened, we grabbed our device and quickly and easily connected to the internet with our mobile phones then we were on our way (this turned out to be much cheaper than simply using the international day pass through our normal cell carrier). Access to Google Maps is indispensable for navigating public transportation here. We took the Keikyu Airport Line directly to our hotel (I added the first metro stamp to my collection too), and we were even treated to a surprise clear view of Mount Fuji along the way. The Suica transit cards in our Apple Wallet worked like a charm, so we didn’t have any challenges at all for our first experience with public transportation here (and, the cost of rides is very affordable).
We arrived at our hotel (Hyatt Centric in Ginza) around 7:30-7:45am, dropped off our bags in reception, and set out with a day pack. The Ginza area is known for luxury brand shopping, so there were high-end boutiques located all around our hotel. I had chosen this hotel specifically because I wanted to stay in a Western brand hotel near the race finish line with easy access to public transportation.
We walked over to the nearby Imperial Palace to be part of the public celebration for the Emperor’s birthday. His Majesty the Emperor together with Her Majesty the Empress, Their Imperial Highnesses Crown Prince and Crown Princess Akishino, Her Imperial Highness Princess Aiko and Her Imperial Highness Princess Kako of Akishino were scheduled to appear at the balcony of the Chowa-Den Hall to greet the visitors gathered in the Totei (East Court) three times in the morning (First appearance around 10:20 a.m., Second appearance around 11:00 a.m., Third appearance around 11:40 a.m.).
We were in line by 8:30am. Japanese paper flags were distributed to visitors before going through security and bag check then we were instructed to line up at the end of the second group at our entrance. Three different queues were set up at different entrance locations, but they all ended up merging when the groups were summoned forward beginning at 9:30am. We were shocked by how cold we were with the wind chill in the mid 30s while we waited. Thankfully, we made it through for the first appearance of the royal court (which lasted 5 minutes) then the crowd dispersed in the same orderly fashion that we had all congregated.
Eager to warm up and get off our feet for a bit, we walked over to Tokyo Station for an early lunch. We eventually navigated our way to the underground “Ramen Street” where we enjoyed our first taste of authentic ramen at Soranoiro Nippon (GF ramen & dumplings available). Of course, Kurt ordered the special, limited to 60/day, which featured “plenty of pork.” This was also our introduction to eating at Japanese restaurants. When told to do so, we placed our order at a kiosk (no credit card – cash or IC payment only). Then, we waited for staff to instruct us when and where to be seated in the very small restaurant (with small bins located underneath the chairs to store your bags). Our food came quickly, and we realized that this is not a place to linger after finishing your meal due to the long line of people waiting outside to eat.
After lunch, we walked over to the ASICS store to pick up our pre-ordered race merchandise then we went back to our hotel. Fortunately, we were able to check-in to our room a little early at that point, so we had a decision to make – shower and nap (which would spell disaster for dealing with the jet lag in the long-term) or keep our momentum going with a bonus outing to Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building to take in the views from the free (indoor) observation deck on the 45th floor (only north tower open at this time). This also gave us the opportunity to scope out the logistics of getting to the start of the race here for next weekend. The area was very quiet on this Sunday afternoon. Although the view of Mount Fuji was obscured by clouds by this point in the day, we were able to get a sense of just how sprawling the city is in every direction. The Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower was one of my favorite buildings.
We stopped at a convenience store near our hotel, Natural Lawson, for the first of likely many grab and go meals during the trip. An easy on the go gluten-free option that is readily available at the local konbini is salmon onigiri. Onigiri is a Japanese rice ball that is usually formed into triangular or cylindrical shapes and wrapped in nori (seaweed). It turned out to be a yummy and cheap meal/snack! Then, we got settled into our room and got ourselves sorted out for the week ahead. Over twenty-two thousand steps for the day may not be the best strategy for a marathon taper, but I am looking forward to the week ahead!