Our day began with a private bus transfer to Les Chapieux, the starting point for today’s hike. Then, as usual, the climbing began right away. We had a long, steep ascent towards the Col Du Bonhomme mountain pass.
Our guide allowed us to proceed ahead at our own pace, if desired, and I was first to the refuge at the Croix du Bonhomme (8,015 feet).
Unfortunately, we didn’t have much of a view from here due to clouds with rain threatening. Nevertheless, it was a good stopping point to break for our customary coke and snacks.
Then, we pushed on. Our guide wanted to get through the next section, which was rocky down and across to the second pass, while it was still dry. I definitely wanted to get as much done as possible before it started raining (that would raise my fear factor going downhill).
Once we reached the second pass, the rain began as we navigated a long, rocky descent toward our lunch spot. The trail passed next to two large patches of snow at the bottom of a glacier on our way down. This was the only accessible snow we had found during the entire excursion, so of course we had to stop to walk on it and take some pictures!
Thankfully, the rain stopped as we descended further, and we were able to enjoy our picnic lunch. Then, we noticed that we had visitors…a herd of sheep started encroaching on us over the hillside until it was a full-scale invasion of the rock that we had just been sitting on for lunch shortly before!
The descent continued after lunch, and I ran (more of a trot, really) when the trail wasn’t too technical so that I wouldn’t get too far behind (because the rocky downhill slows me down behind the group).
We arrived at the next refuge, Refuge de la Balme, as they were preparing for the UTMB racers who would be ascending this section tonight. I cannot comprehend how these runners can traverse this type of terrain in the dark!
Guess what – more descending after our stop at the refuge! Our guide allowed me to run ahead on my own because the trail was more of a gravel (Roman) road at that point. I was relieved because this felt better to my legs than walking after so much downhill motion.
I waited for the group at the Roman Bridge where we crossed the Bon Nant river. Then, I continued on to our final stop at Notre Dame de la Gorge. The church does not have regular services, although it serves as a place of prayer associated with the crossing of the Col du Bonhomme mountain pass (which we had just traversed).
In the years prior to COVID, locals would light bonfires at Notre Dame de la Gorge to help energize the UTMB runners as they began their first of possibly two nights traversing the trail. After the race was cancelled in 2020, the 2021 edition lacked these bonfires and so the race sponsor Hoka brought in a colorful light tunnel for this year’s edition.
Having safely navigated another day on the TMB (today’s hike was approximately 17k with an elevation gain/loss of +3,609 feet/-4,593 feet), we were excited to get to our hotel near Contamines so that we could see the UTMB racers coming through town in the evening. We took a public bus to our hotel only to find that our bags hadn’t yet arrived (they were mistakenly delivered to the wrong location).
Once we were reunited with our luggage and had dinner, Kurt and I walked over to the nearby trail to cheer on the lead racers at approximately 30k into their race. The atmosphere was electric with fans cheering on the trail and on the road; Les Contamines was the third aid station of the race and it had a time cutoff of midnight. The race, which follows the Tour du Mont Blanc trail, traverses 171.5 kilometers (106.5 miles) with over 10,000 meters (32,800 feet) of climbing through three countries. The winners will finish their journey tomorrow afternoon in Chamonix, France…and, so will we!
This whole trip has been very exciting to read about and see with your beautiful pictures! I’m completely convinced that Dave and I are not in any kind of shape to complete this.
Have you tow thought of doing the Appalachian Trail or the Pacific Coast Trail? They might be a bit more rustic but how inspiring!